The “other” Delos
Opposite Delos, Rinia appears almost untouched by time. A silent island, dotted with ancient graves, ruined farmsteads, and the traces of people who lived, worked, or died for the sake of Delos. This is where the Delians transported their dead and those about to give birth in 426 BC, when the Athenians ordered the “purification” of the sacred island. Since then, Rinia became the necropolis of Delos.
As you approach by boat, the land opens into undulating low hills. The ancient necropolis extends across the western coast, from Glaropounta to the cove of Kato Generalis. Amongst the low dry stone terraces, you will discern sarcophagi, funerary enclosures, cisterns, and pedestals. This area is also home to the famous ‘Pit of Purification’, where the Athenians gathered the bones of the Delians, as well as the subterranean Tomb with Niches, a monument reminiscent of a labyrinth.
Slightly further south, the funerary enclosure containing the sarcophagus of the Roman woman Tertia Horaria Tryphera and her ritual cistern tells of another era: the Roman-era Rinia, more secular yet equally sacred. Nearby, amidst the ruins, stands the Lion of Rinia, the guardian of the site.
At the summit of Chomasovouni hill, overlooking Delos, stood the sanctuary of Artemis, who, according to the Homeric Hymn to Apollo, was born on Rinia and protected the island. Foundations, marble pieces, and fragments of sculpted birds remain visible around it, bearing witness to a cult that links Rinia to Delos through light and silence.
Later, during Byzantine and modern times, the island served different roles: the castle of the Knights of Saint John in the 14th century and the Lazaretto station of Karantina, where ships remained in isolation during the 19th century.
It is recommended to visit the island accompanied by an archaeologist or researcher. As you return by boat towards Mykonos, observe its silence, which seems to look you directly in the eyes — or perhaps the soul.
As you approach by boat, the land opens into undulating low hills. The ancient necropolis extends across the western coast, from Glaropounta to the cove of Kato Generalis. Amongst the low dry stone terraces, you will discern sarcophagi, funerary enclosures, cisterns, and pedestals. This area is also home to the famous ‘Pit of Purification’, where the Athenians gathered the bones of the Delians, as well as the subterranean Tomb with Niches, a monument reminiscent of a labyrinth.
Slightly further south, the funerary enclosure containing the sarcophagus of the Roman woman Tertia Horaria Tryphera and her ritual cistern tells of another era: the Roman-era Rinia, more secular yet equally sacred. Nearby, amidst the ruins, stands the Lion of Rinia, the guardian of the site.
At the summit of Chomasovouni hill, overlooking Delos, stood the sanctuary of Artemis, who, according to the Homeric Hymn to Apollo, was born on Rinia and protected the island. Foundations, marble pieces, and fragments of sculpted birds remain visible around it, bearing witness to a cult that links Rinia to Delos through light and silence.
Later, during Byzantine and modern times, the island served different roles: the castle of the Knights of Saint John in the 14th century and the Lazaretto station of Karantina, where ships remained in isolation during the 19th century.
It is recommended to visit the island accompanied by an archaeologist or researcher. As you return by boat towards Mykonos, observe its silence, which seems to look you directly in the eyes — or perhaps the soul.
